Berlin

Saturday 2/7- Fog. What is up with the Northern European obsession with fog? Weather= not so good today, but what else is new. Went to the breakfast buffet in the eating area amongst the hostelers. Had a roll with jam, water and two slices of salami and cheese. I have scarcely seen such a bounty. Sat alone pretending to read a German newspaper. After writing my Copenhagen blog on my wireless connection and newly plug-adapted Powerbook, it was time to get out on the town.

To save a measly €2.10, I walked to the Alexanderplatz which is a relic of East Berlin, complete with 'futuristic' late 60's concrete TV tower and associated masterpieces of Communist architecture. I slipped inside the Marienkirche which is the one thing which escaped the bombing in this area. Then over to the statues of Marx and Engels that were moved following the fall of the Berlin wall. They stand nearly alone surrounded by churches and symbols of capitalism, relegated to mere props for tourists like myself. Then off to the Berliner Dom, the cathedral which was reconstructed in the 1970's. Nothing too spectacular, but I couldn't resist climbing the dome for a view of the foggy city.

But I came here to do real work. That means the Altes Museum next door. In its doors lie treasures of Egyptian art including much from Amarna and the famous bust of Nefertiti. Downstairs, almost hidden, is the Greek and Roman art. I naturally took hundreds of photos. Many good depictions of children. With only about an hour remaining, I took my 3-day museum card over to the Alte Nationalgalerie where much was forgettable, though there were a few standouts among the (Post) Impressionists and the Caspar David Friederichs. I ran out of time, so I planned to return first thing the following day to finish up the remaining galleries.

Walking across the bridge I was reveled by the bells of the Dom and the reflection of the church in the Spree River. The fog had lifted somewhat, so I walked over to the Fernsehturm (TV Tower) intending to go up to the observatory. I got my ticket and made my way past some exhibits about the tower's construction to the elevator. The crowd moved in and there seemed to be no more space so I stood there waiting for the next one. The elevator guy said something to me. I assumed it was "wait for the next one" or something like that. He said something again. Then I heard something with "hand" and "bag". Maybe this was actually English? Then I got it- take off my backpack and hold it in my hands and squeeze in. Then the elevator man turned to me and asked me where I was from. When I said "America", he responded, "America? No you're not. You can't even understand English. I said it four times. Jesus Christ." Embarrassed and a little angry at him for taking it so personally, I stood there while he said some junk in German to the other tourists who chuckled about something. Still smarting about his comments, I felt like George Costanza when he thought of a great comeback hours after it was useful. But I still had the ride down. So, I prepared something and girded myself for the encounter, but it was not to be. Another lift operator had taken his place. Relieved but also wanting to get some revenge, I walked across the platz to the Subway. And spoke English. So endeth the fifth day.

Me in my hostel room

The Fernsehturm in the clouds

Marienkirche

Statue from the Neptunbrunnen

Area of the Marx and Engels statues

Karl and I

A competitor

Closeup of angel on the Dom (Cathedral)

Relief from Amarna

Nefertiti

East Berlin architecture at its best

Dom at night

Altes Museum

Hadrian

Portrait of Roman boy

Hellenistic sculpture of girl 'playing' with a duck

Red figure Greek vase of boy playing ball


Sunday 2/8- With the elevator "incident" behind me, I splurged the next morning and took the subway to Alexanderplatz. Miracle of all miracles, the sun broke through and I saw blue sky! Sadly, it was not to last, and twenty minutes later the clouds were back. I did get a nice shot of the Fernsehturm, though. I finished the Alte Nationalgalerie and then ate at the only restaurant I could find. Pretty much a dump but super cheap. I think I had a bratwurst and french fries with a little salad on the plate (=cabbage and mayonaise-like curdled dressing). Question: why are the french fries in Germany bright yellow? The waiter asked if it was good and I said "excellent" without batting an eyelash.

Onto the pièce de résistance, the Pergamon Museum. For those of you not in the know, the Germans basically took the entire decoration off the the structure of the Altar of Zeus at Pergamon (in modern Turkey) and reconstructed it in Berlin. It is incredibly impressive. There are also architectural elements from Hellenistic and Roman architecture in adjoining rooms. Another treasure is the Ishtar Gate from Babylon, also taken wholesale and reconstructed. Having only about 45 minutes left, I had to skip the Bode Museum of Byzantine art, and go upstairs to the Islamic collection instead. Actually pretty interesting. And, the bonus was being practically the last person in the museum, allowing for people free money-shots of all the big objects. All in all, a success.

Tired, I again heard the bells of the Dom, and also again, went to Subway. And Dunkin' Donuts for a bagel. (Hey, I'm poor!) Tempted by the hostel bar's Long Island Ice Tea, I somehow held back and went to bed. So endeth the sixth day.

Detail of Pergamon Altar

Me at the Pergamon Altar

Roman Theater

Carpet from Islamic Art Galleries

Ishtar Gate from Babylon


Monday 2/9- I woke up to a frosty scene of snow showers outside my window. As if the weather couldn't get any worse. I needed to get to the airport via the subway and bus, so I packed up my hand-washed clothes that were scattered about my room, took care of a billing issue at the desk and was off. Even without a direct train to Tegel, it's not bad considering I paid €2.10 and the trip took about 45 minutes.

After a short delay, we were off to Munich, and for the first time in many days, I actually saw blue sky and sun for more than ten minutes. However, all normal things must come to an end, and upon landing I was back under the clouds and snow showers. The airport is way outside the city and it took 45 minutes to get in. Found the hotel without a problem and checked in. The lobby/bar area is a bit funky but may not live up to what is implied by "ArtHotel". The hallways are more like "SanitariumHotel" but my room is very nice with real towels and modern decor. The neighbourhood is not so good, but it is convenient to the train station.

Not wanting to waste a moment, I was off to the Neue Pinaktothek or the museum of art from about 1750-1910. Saw some Delacroixs, Gainsboroughs, and the usual French Impressionists. The guy at the coat check desk insisted on talking to me about his camera in German which I proudly gathered was a Canon Eos 50D. Not having much to say about it, I walked away awkwardly. Exhausted as always, I fed myself on a bevy purchased at the Train Station food court and ate while watching CNN international. If I never see BBC World or CNNi again, I will be happy. So endeth the seventh day.

Sanitarium-esque hallway

Munich hotel room